Hints & Tips
Here we have a huge list of Top Tips to help you with every aspect of vehicle cleaningTOP TIPS FOR CAR CLEANING:
When cleaning door shuts, start the lance "off the job" then move the jet onto the area to be cleaned. This gives more directional control over the recoil and spray. Point the lance slightly away from the car when hosing the door shuts and the result will be a dry interoir.
Autosmart's Leather Medic is also proven to be a successful ink remover from fabric. Work the Leather Medic into the stain, frequently dab the stain with a clean cloth too. Also, wipe the Leather Medicclean frequently with a clean cloth. Continue until stain removed. Caution: Pre-test in an inconspicuous area first.
Autosmart's Restore R1 can be used, with care, to remove minor scratches from glass. The best method is to apply it by cloth and work by hand in a circular motion, applying some pressure. For small areas this usually involves one or two fingers behind the cloth. Once the blemish has been removed simply clean the glass as normal.
Autosmart's new Cherry Glaze polish can also be used as an effective glass cleaner. MicroFibre cloth is excellent when used as a final polishing cloth on cars, especially when using harder wax type products, such as Carnauba wax.
Always clean out your buffing pads using water at the end of the day. This will prevent the compounds from drying and will help to remove any excess that may have built up. Doing this will also help prolong the life of your pads.
When cleaning any glass, make sure the surface is cool and out of the sunlight. This will help prevent streaking.
To hasten the dispersal of malodours, fill a syringe with BioBrisk and inject directly into the upholstery where the stain has occured.
Use Silver Seal Paint Protector on Alloy wheels to give a high gloss finish with added protection from brake dust. It also makes re-cleaning much easier!
Maintenance of fabric convertible tops is straightforward if you follow these basic guidelines. First spray the car with water. Clean the vinyl top with a mild detergent such as Autowash or Duet and a gentle scrub brush. Make sure that you use a non-scratch brush on plastic windows, as they will scratch very easily. When clean and dry you can protect the top using Silver Seal Fabric Protector.
Biobrisk is very good at keeping drains unblocked. Spray Biobrisk daily down plug holes to prevent blockages caused by hair and grease. Remember though that chemical detergents and Bleach will prevent Biobrisk working.
Recharge your hanging air freshener by spraying Autofresh or any other perfumed product onto it.
When cleaning/degreasing engines, always cover components such as engine management systems or alarm systems with protective plastic bags to reduce the chance of damage.
When cleaning vehicle windows, always remember to lower the window 1/2 an inch and clean the top, so when the customer uses their windows they are totally clean and they don't have a dirty 1/2 inch.
When cleaning rubber floor mats, use a dressing sponge with Non-Silicone Highstyle to create a cleaning and conditioning treatment. This will also leave no excess fluid on the mats.
When dressing interior surfaces and vents, coat a small paintbrush with Silicone Spray to get into those difficult areas.
As well as Jelsol, Mechoil can be used to remove sticky residue left by stickers on paintwork or windows.
Autosmart's Tango can be used on alloy wheels once they have been cleaned to make them look more glossy. Simply spray on and wipe off.
Use the Autosmart dressing sponge to help make car preparation quicker and easier, whilst preventing chemical overuse. Designed to work with all Autosmart dressings - for both interior and exterior car preparation - it is made from a material that is both hard wearing and provides optimum absorbency. This makes it easy to distribute dressings evenly across the surface, giving a perfect finish. It also helps to ensure economical use of the chemical. It's unique ergonomic design ensures that it is excellent for getting into all the nooks and crannies found on a car, yet extremely easy to handle and manipulate.
For the best way to clean wheels with baked on brake dust, firstly blast loose dirt off with high pressure water. If wheels are alloy, prespray with Ali or Ali shine and allow to dwell for a few minutes. It may be necessary to agitate with an Autosmart Atlasta Wheel Brush to help remove baked on brake dust. Finally blast off with high pressure water. For non-alloy wheels use TFR or G101 in place of an Acid product and use in the same way.
Wash used polishing cloth so they can be re-used, this is a good idea as it is environmentally friendly and also cost effective. However if you do wash used polishing cloths DO NOT use fabric softeners or conditioners, using these will make the cloths less absorbent and will make polish smear when applying to a vehicle.
When polishing your car, apply the polish to the whole vehicle and then buff the polish off, rather than doing a panel at a time. This gives time for the polish to dry properly on the paintwork, and will give better results. N.B. Avoid polishing vehicles in extreme temperatures.
When cleaning glass use our new Microclean Fibreoptic Cloth to ensure a streak-free and squeaky-clean finish. The cloth can be washed and re-used, making it highly economical. Ideal for use with Autosmart's NEW 20/20 Glass Cleaner.
Use a polishing sponge to apply polish to a vehicle's paintwork. This gives the best control over the application of the product and helps your polish to go further- saving you time and money.
Autosmart's Safe T Strip is a very versatile product the composition of this formulation has allowed it to succeed in many application
- Use as a non-acidic wheel cleaner - Removing oil/grease off driveways and forecourts.
- Cleaning up old factory floors prior to repainting.
Use cold water to wash as much soiling and salt from your vehicles as possible before applying any chemical. This ensures that you get the best possible clean at the lowest possible cost. In hot weather make sure vehicles are thoroughly 'wetted' before applying chemical. Try to avoid cleaning vehicles in direct sunlight. .
Always use products at the recommended dilution. Too strong a dilution does not give a better result. It wastes money and may dull the paintwork. Your franchisee will help you select the correct dilution.
When using foam products take chemical off working from bottom upwards finish off by finally rinsing from top down.
For the best way to clean a lorry chassis take the following steps:
1) Remove heavy grease and oil deposits with hot water at high pressure. Do not use chemical at this stage as it will not be any more affective.
2) Apply detergent hot at appropriate dilution rate. Leave to dwell for 5 - 10 mins.
3) Rinse off with hot water at high pressure. When applying chemical to your vehicle, always ensure you start from the bottom and work your way upwards. This avoids streaking on the paintwork. When applying the chemical, only wet the surface, do not try to remove all of the soiling.
TOP TIPS FOR EQUIPMENT:
In cold weather it is best practice to thoroughly drain any equipment in which aqueous products could collect. This will reduce the risk of the aqueous product freezing and causing damage. This will include HPW's, Prespray equipment, Wall Mixers and Foam systems. All hoses and guns should also be drained as thoroughly as possible.
TOP TIPS FOR PREMISES:
Biobrisk is very good at keeping drains unblocked. Spray Biobrisk daily down plug holes to prevent blockages caused by hair and grease. Remember though that chemical detergents and Bleach will prevent Biobrisk working.
Autosmarts Mechoil can be used to remove chewing gum from many types of surfaces. Try on inconspicuous area first.
EXTERIOR TRIM & FINISHING:
Rubber and plastic fade and oxidize just like the paint of your vehicle. Heat, UV exposure and use all take their toll, especially when left untreated. Dressings will renew many rubber and plastic surfaces, where restoration can revitalize plastic that has been left to the elements.
CONDITIONING RUBBER: Window trim or any flexible trim will oxidize when left untreated. Window rubbers will look dry and faded. To restore, use Finishing touch to wipe over oxidized material avoid contact with painted surface. When using a towel it may turn black, so turn the towel often and wipe the surface thoroughly. This wiping process will expose clean bare rubber.
CONDITIONING PLASTIC: Bumpers, trim and many other items make up the plastic surfaces of a vehicle. These items need care just like the rubber surfaces. Build-up of dirt, exhaust and silicone based products take their toll. For a light cleaning, use care n clean. To protect, use a vinyl dressing such as Vinyl sheild. Apply a vinyl dressing with a towel or applicator sponge. Do not spray directly onto trim. Excess spray will leave residue on paint and other surfaces. not only will this give a better finish you will use less product saving money. Now wait a coupe of miniutes for this to penetration into the surface, before wiping off. Apply aerosol dressings by spraying onto bristles of a soft paintbrush. Apply by brushing onto trim.
VINYL DRESSINGS: Vinyl dressings come in two varieties, silicone and non-silicone Non-silicone based products are best for surfaces that only receive occasional treatments or for a body shop environment where silicone can damage painted surfaces.
APPLYING WAXES/SEALANTS: Always apply waxes and sealant when the surface is cool and away from direct sunlight. As temperatures increase, waxes and sealants become increasingly difficult to remove. It is best to use a hand applicator pad, Some manufactures only recommend a hand-applied process, as well as a back and fourth motion opposed to circular motions.
Use a pad to evenly spread coatings across the painted surface. Professional detailers use an orbital waxer to apply liquid waxes and paint sealants for time savings and even application. However, paste waxes are intended to be applied by hand. Always remember that several thin coats provide better protection than one thick one. Only a small amount of waxes and sealants remain after burnishing (buffing) therefore several thin coats provide a better barrier of protection. When applying several coats of wax, allow the paint/wax to breathe this will allow the wax to harden and help the build-up of protection. If a second coat of wax is applied over a first coat that hasn't set-up (hardened), it will just move around the wax molecules and not build-up any additional protection.
Waxes and sealants usually need to be left on a surface for 15-20 minutes before removal. This time will vary according to the ambient temperature conditions and quality of paintwork. Wax should wipe clean without streaking or powdering. If a wax streaks, it needs to be allowed to dry on the surface longer. If it powders, it was left on too long. Remove waxes and sealants with a soft cotton towel or microfiber cloth, turning it often. It may require several cotton towels to complete the removal process. However, it may only take one microfiber cloth to remove the wax from an entire vehicle. Keep the towels form coming in contact with any dirty object. Always follow up with a clean towel for final burnishing.
Special Note: Polymer Sealants are designed with an open linked molecule and need approximately 48 hours from the time of application to properly cross link and bond with the vehicles painted surface. Be sure that the surface of the vehicle can be left undisturbed from rain and water for this period of time or the surface protection may be compromised.
Detailers tip
WAX BUILD UP REMOVAL: Wax build up needs to be removed, especially on a dark colored car. Old wax is more difficult to remove, and requires more care to safely eliminate this build up from a vehicle. To remove wax from a vehicles trim, use a wooden horsehair paintbrush or a plastic toothbrush with soft bristles. Agitate with care, making sure not to scratch the delicate paint surface. Tooth picks or wooden stemmed cotton swabs cut off at an angle are also extremely effective. The sharp point can be used to clean edges, and remove stubborn wax build up.